"...My god did you just hit me with the New Yorker 'pizza doesn't need toppings' but for hot dogs?" Erin laughs warmly, clearly delighted even if she's confused. "I'm with you on the relish even if I'm normally a fanatic for anything sweet, it just doesn't hit right. That Chicago relish is...well, I don't buy hot dogs in Chicago."

Is she breezing past the manners thing? Yes, don't ask, we're doing food nerdery now because Erin's sensing a passionate expert and she sure does love those.

"But! You've hit on my point here; the essential aspects of the hot dog can only be classed up so much. Nothing you've described moves it all that far from its roots as street food, as something from the people rather than from artistes." Erin waves the coconut shrimp on her fork again. "Personally I stick this and like, orange chicken in that category. Every time I've seen someone try to class it up they take away the appeal, usually starting with the sugar. The sugar's there on purpose! Why does everyone remove it!"